Dog Training Students at Quarterdeck Bar and Grill

This is an outing that I took some of my students on, to Quarterdeck Bar and Grill, for some "REAL LIFE TRAINING" .

Bella, a Catahoula, 6 months of age

Millie, a 6 month old English Mastiff;  Largo, the greatest Rottweiler in the world, and Oliver, a 6 yr old Labrador Retriever

Oliver and Ariana, a 6 month old German Shepherd, who is in training for her disabled master.

This is a great crew of dogs, doing some awesome obedience and skills work, at such a distracting place!

Group Classes Now Forming!

We have Group Classes Now Forming.

Nuts and Bolts:
When:  Thursday Evenings, 6:30 Pm Until 7: 30 PM(thereabouts)
Date of Start:  July 26th, 2012
Class Size:  No Less than 5 no more than 15
Where:  Coral Springs, Corporate Park area
Cost:  $150.00
Length of Class:   6 weeks

Here is what we will cover in the class:
Loose Leash Walking

Heel
Sit/Stay(with normal, real life distractions, and even a few distractions that the dogs will likely never encounter)
Down/Stay(See sit/stay for a basic description)
Recall....AKA Come When You Are Called
Leave it(IE< no burping, farting, licking, scratching, or sniffing in public---and, no I can't teach your husbands not to do all those things, ladies.)
Cover basic behavioral Problems

Now, here some basic "rules".   No alcohol on the premises.  Don't smoke while you are training.  No sunglasses while working your dog.  Dogs are ON LEASH unless I give you permission otherwise.  YOU must have your hands on the leash, unless I tell you otherwise.  Dogs must have basic, core vaccines to participate and if old enough, must be current on Rabies or have a current titer test.

What to bring:  Chair(something to park your body in, while I am "lecturing".  Something for you and your dog to drink(No alcohol) A note pad and pen.  And lots of puppy treats(something soft....not hard). 

Cost of a Service Dog

Lately, I have had people approach me asking what it takes to train a service dog....When I start outlining the costs of DOING IT RIGHT....they are astounded...

So, here is what it takes, in my humble opinion, to DO IT RIGHT:

1)  Purchase a dog.  Statistics show that shelter dogs have  less then 25% chance of passing a service dog program....so why waste time?  Why not go to a good breeder and get an acceptable candidate?  Many people what to do the whole "feel good" thing, but....are you prepared, financially when the dog can't pass the mustard?  So, the cost of well bred lab, from a reputable field/show breeder(I want their rejects).  $500.00.

2)  Health Certifications.  It is, in my opinion, unethical to place a dog who is not soooo  healthy it's scary.  Why?  Because they can't always tell you when they are in pain or sick...so, why put that on them?  Here is the run down of what should be done, medically, prior to accepting a dog into training:
   Heartworm Test(if they are positive, or have been treated in the past for heartworms, turn them down.  There is a strong possibliity that they will have a damaged heart because of it, thus, potentially affecting their ability to work.
   Thyroid Test.  Thyroid isn't hard to treat, but the average person on disability can't really afford extra money out of their pocket for the yearly testing and meds.  Further, bad thyroids can cause aggression issues, lethargy, obesity, skin problems, etc....A dog who is bald in places and stinks has no business working in public.
   Cardiac Test.  Let's face it, a heart problem, even minor can cause exhaustion, and potentially kill a dog.  Do you really want to put a year of training on a dog, to have it drop over dead because of a heart attack?
   Hip/Elbow Exrays.  Hip dysplasia can't be seen by the naked eye.  Any organization who doesn't check for hip issues, is unethical.  Any private owner doing owner training who doesn't do hip exrays is cruel and abusive.  If the dog has hip/elbow issues, even if you are not using it for brace work, etc...is just not right.  They hurt.  It causes pain.  And, as a trainer/handler/owner, are abusive if you force the dog to work when they are in pain.

Now, all this testing, alone will run around $500.00.

3)  More Medical. 
Spay/neuter:  400.00
Vaccines:  120.00 Per year
Heartworm/flea prevention:  100.00 per year

4)  Feeding a dog for 6 months to a year, while in training:  600.00
5)  Misc toys, treats, bedding, grooming, etc:  500.00
6)  Harnesses/Leashes/Collars:  250.00 to 1000.00
7)  Taking the dog into real-life situations(IE, Movies, Restaurants, Etc...)1500.00 for the duration of training.
8)  In my case, I hire private trainers who are not affiliated with me to administer the final public access test prior to placement and during placement classes:  $300.00


So, right here, I have, out of my own pocket around $5000.00 on a dog.  Do people really think that I have a money tree somewhere?  If I did, I wouldn't be living in a warehouse(well, actually I probably would, it would just be bigger), driving a beat up 2002 Honda Odessy(ok, I would, sometimes, but it would get a paint job and new tires)....I would have a 3000 sqft warehouse, I would have my Jeep or Toyota Tundra, I would have some new pistols(yep, I like guns)....But, I would be having a whole lot more than I do.....And, I wouldn't care to give dogs away...

Now, I as a trainer, put between 500 and 1000 hours into training a dog.Actual training time of the dog.  This doesn't include grooming, bathing, cleaning up after, feeding, etc. Over 250 of those hours are public access(IE, movies, out to eat, walmart, etc...)  So....If I charge someone 10000.00 for a service dog, that takes me 6 to 12 months to train, and I put 500 hours(minimum) into the dog, then I have made less than 10.00 per hour.  Why less that 10.00 per hour you say?  Because I also have to feed the dog, bath the dog, walk the dog, clean up after the dog, etc....

And, heaven forbid, that during the time the dog is with me, I want to take a few days off to go to Indiana to see my mother....I have to either cart the dogs with me, or hire a dog sitter, or board the dogs....Sigh...so that is money out of my pocket.....

So, you see, properly done, training a service dog costs a whole lot more than one would think.  You think 10,000.00 is alot of money, when I have spent my last 6-12 months with the dog?  You think that 10,000.00 is alot of money, when you consider the money I have invested in my dog training education?  Really? 

So, those with disabilities:  Go earn the money to pay for your dogs.  Even "non-profits" are going to expect you to fund-raise...and since when does being disabled mean that everything is handed to us on a silver platter?  Really?  We don't have to work for anything just because we are disabled....Hey, I want a new I-Pad!  Think WalMart will give me one, because I am disabled and I ask?  No.....So, please do not expect your dog trainer to give you a dog because you are disabled.  Work for it!

Is There Such A Thing As A Good Doggie Daycare?

So, when I got back from Italy, I decided that I no longer wanted to as many board/trains in my home and that it might be nice to work out of a facility....So, I went to Barker's Pet Resort in Ft. Lauderdale. 
On the surface, it seemed a nice enough facility...but....looking deeper there were inherent problems...

1)  Cleanliness.  Now, I have dogs.  In the past I have had alot of dogs.  At one point in time, when I was in Deerfield, I had over 20 dogs in my 2/2 townhouse(fenced yard).  NEVER ONCE WOULD YOU HAVE SMELLED A DOG THERE.  The yard was spotlessly maintained, facility was bleached daily(Yep, I am one of those people who tries to commit suicide by bleach).  But, never, could you ever say that the place stunk like dog urine/feces.  This place reeks of urine.  Constantly.  Do you really want to take your dog somewhere that is like that?

2)  Staff training.  When in a doggie day care setting, dogs act like dogs.  Humans tend to act like humans.  The problem becomes, that when humans can't understand doggie language, it is often a recipe for disaster.  None of the staff, altho well-meaning kind people, have had any training or have any clue about breaking up dog fights, or better yet, preventing them from happening in the first place.

3)  Owners who spout "I hate the United States".  You know, if you really hate it here, then go back to Israel.  Otherwise, stop with the bitching.

4)  Owners, who have never successfully trained a dog in their life, thinking that they are qualified to teach dog training classes.  Wow....that just boggles my mind.

5)  Owners who do not pay their debts.  They owe one sub-contractor(me) well,alot of money, for teaching dog training classes......

6)  Owners who scream at clients, and employees in front of clients and employees....

7)  Owners who allow staff members to steal from other staff members.

8)  Staff members who file false reviews on Google/Yelp/Etc....guess they were paid?

All of this goes to ethics.  Not paying your subcontractors.  Not taking dogs who are sick/injured to the vet immediately(one dog attacked by another, because of no temperament testing of dogs, and lack of staff training, then left in kennel for three days before finally taking it to the vet....)

But, if they aren't ethical, do I really want to leave my dog there?

So, I get an email today from a lady who "can't believe I don't think that there is a pet overpopulation problem."  And, no I don't think that there is a pet overpopulation problem.  I think that there is some serious misleading out there as to how many adoptable animals are actually out there.....

Further, breeders, whether they mass produce or simply produce one or two litters every 3 yrs are not the problem....Period.  I have never put one of my pups in the pound.  One of my dogs has not been euthanized because they weren't wanted....Ever.  Not a single pup of mine has ever ended up in the pound.  Ever. 

And they won't.  Why?  Because they know that I would "kill" them if they did. 

And, they know that I love my pups, and they can always come home.

Now, what other breeders do, I don't know...but I know that alot of good breeders have the same experience.

There are some people who don't want other people's cast offs, their problem pups, their rejects.....They want a pure bred puppy from a breeder they can trust who has bloodlines that are proven.

Now, as a service dog trainer, I don't want puppies from the pound....I want puppies from breeders, or dogs from people who are in a position of no longer keeping them, or trainers who find that the dog doesn't cut the mustard for whatever they are training for....I want dogs that I know how they are raised, what their genetics are.....I want to know how long the parents lived.  How long the grandparents lived.  If there is a history of hip dysplasia, cancer, thyroid issues in the bloodlines...I can't get that from a pound puppy.

Is that being an elitist?  Yes, maybe...but I know, from experience that pups/dogs from the sources that I choose are 90% likely to pass and become a service dog.  Dogs from the pound have less than a 25% chance of becoming a service dog...Now, for me, that translates into about 4000.00, by the time it's all said and done.

So, here it is:  If you don't like my point of view, don't read it. Don't email me.  Don't call me.  Don't bother me.  GO do some research and learn the truth of the matter.....

Proper Leash Handling Skills, Where a Heel should Be, Nice Distance Recall

I could have/should have put this one at the end....But, this pup is doing a sit-stay on a busy residential street at the end of a 30 ft. leash.....WOW...That all dogs should be this nicely behaved in 10 days time!

This same pup doing a front come....Nose in the crotch...Typical Dobie!

Notice that there is "U" shape to the leash?  That is how "loose" the leash should be on a properly trained dog,

This is an EXAMPLE of how to NOT HOLD THE LEASH!

This shows where the dog should be, and again, how loose the leash should be!

See how the leash is dragging in the behind the dog?  This dog is "essentially" off leash.  Why?  Because that leash is 30 ft in length....He has the option not to "heel".  BTW, this dog is 7 months old at the time of this picture.

Just A Few Pics Here and There......

Taste of the Wild

I think this dog likes Taste of The Wild....How About you?

Puppy Mills, Backyard Breeders, and who you SHOULDN'T purchase a puppy from

LET ME PREFACE THIS BY SAYING:  I am all for "free enterprise".  Puppy mills/commercial breeders provide a service.  Contrary to popular nonsense spouted by the HSUS there is NOT A PET OVER POPULATION PROBLEM(More on this in another post).  With that said, I caution people from purchasing puppies without thoroughly doing your research.  Just because someone is USDA inspected(which means that they are a commercial kennel, usually with more than 50 breeding dogs on the premises, and producing many many many litters per year) or because they have a website, does not mean that they are reputable.  Again, I have no issue with them---as long as the dogs are clean, well fed, cared for, and they don't lie/mislead the public.

My personal dogs live in a warehouse.  It is very, very clean, and the dogs eat well, are bathed twice a month, and have toys, and  fresh water daily.  They have a bucket of food in front of them daily(more than enough for their weight).  BUt, it is a warehouse.  And, some wouldn't/don't approve.  But, it is no different than any other kennel.  And, if you think that a USDA kennel is raising their dogs in the house---think again....they are not.  IN FACT, if you read the USDA rules, they really aren't allowed to, unless the house has been inspected and approved by the USDA Inspector. 

Read more, and do your research!

Recently a friend of mine purchased a puppy from a "puppy mill".  When I said something to him, his response was a)It was none of my business, and b) It's better to purchase a puppy from a 'reputable' breeder that has a website.

OK, so let's address that....
A)  Yes, it is my business.  Why?  Because I have puppies on the ground right now.  And, because the risk of his puppy having worms, coccidia, giardia or even parvo is great.  And, the risk of transferring those infections/parasites to my puppies is extremely great.  And, I would prefer to keep my pups alive and healthy.

B)  For dogs sake, why wouldn't you consult someone who has forgotten more about dogs than you will ever know?  I don't care that he bought a mutt.  I care that he bought a mutt from a USDA Kennel.  WHy is that a problem you ask?

Here are some websites that boil it down:
http://www.petshoppuppies.com/about.htm
====Now, let's start with the fact that the puppy in question came from Missouri.  " Missouri has the distinction of having more commercial kennels (those kennels supplying pet shops) than any other state"

Now, keep in mind.....I have no issue again with people making money.  That is what America is built on. Free enterprise.  I have dogs.  I have bitches.  I breed dogs.  I  make money breeding dogs.  I do not have 100 dogs, or have more than 10 litters per year.  However, USDA Liscensed usually means that the  kennel is in business to make money, or that it is their primary source of income.  In order to sell to pet stores or commercially, they must be USDA liscensed.

Here is a crash course in what it means to be USDA Liscensed:

Many have heard of the USDA (it’s stamped on organic food labels, meat labels, and other everyday grocery store items), and many have heard of puppy mills. But the fact that puppy mills are regulated by the USDA is a little-known fact to most people.

The US Department of Agriculture seems like a strange entity to be in charge of regulating the puppy industry, but that’s how it works. To be clearer, the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Services (APHIS) is the arm of the USDA in charge of regulating puppy mills under the Animal Welfare Act. There are currently 5,913 dog breeders and brokers with USDA licenses. People often wonder whether there is a list of all the puppy mills in the country. Well, the USDA is the first place to look.

In April, Oprah Winfrey aired an hour-long show about puppy mills, and the same day, the USDA published a FAQ on animal dealers. Note the paragraph to the right—the first frequently asked question: “who regulates puppy mills?” Answer: the USDA.
**Note that the USDA has since changed the language to read: "Who regulates commercial dog breeders?"

.

What many people also don’t realize is that under the Freedom of Information Act, we are all entitled to view not just a breeder’s name and address, but their inspection reports are included as well. Curious about a breeder? Order their inspection reports. You can do it online by clicking here.

What’s NOT inspected by the USDA?
-Retail pet stores. The USDA only regulates the supply end—the breeders.
-Puppy sales on the Internet, classified ads, flea markets. NO regulation
-Small-scale breeders who have three or fewer breeding female dogs. NO regulation

70 inspectors for 10,000 facilities
In addition to inspecting and watching over commercial dog kennels, APHIS inspectors are also in charge of inspecting research facilities, zoos and circuses, airport terminals—they are in charge of inspecting the care, handling and housing of everything from dogs to dolphins. This document, published on APHIS’ website, has this to say about the inspectors themselves:

“[Animal Care] inspectors receive special training in the proper care of marine mammals, exotic animals, and animals used in research. Inspectors also receive extensive training in how to conduct inspections at airport terminals, zoos, and commercial animal breeding facilities, among others. APHIS currently has more than 70 AC inspectors in the United States, who are strategically placed where regulated facilities are located.”

The total number of active licensed facilities listed on the APHIS website is 9,883. At first glance, seventy inspectors for nearly 10,000 facilities sounds like a miniscule number of people doing a colossal job but if you do the math, it adds up to about one facility per day per inspector.

What compliance means with the AWA
It’s important to note exactly what inspectors are looking for when they arrive at a USDA licensed kennel. Their job is to make sure breeders are adhering to the minimum standards set forth by the Animal Welfare Act (AWA). They can look at a facility with hundreds of dogs in small cages, desperate for human attention, and note no violations.

That’s because the AWA does nothing to ensure dogs are happy, or live a quality life. It’s not written into the regulations, and therefore is not something the USDA enforces. Here are some quick facts about the minimum standards set forth by the USDA:
-Inspections are “Risk-based,” meaning that facilities that meet a certain criteria are inspected “as seldom as once every 2 to 3 years.”
-Cage size: must be 6 inches larger than the size of the dog, on all sides
-Up to 12 dogs can be housed in one cage
-Dogs never have to be let out of their cages. Breeders only need to have an exercise plan
-There is no limit to the number dogs a breeder can have—many have over 1,000
-There is no age limit for breeding dogs. If a dog is able to produce puppies for ten years, that’s how long they could be in the facility


Now, again, let me be straight:  I don't care where you buy your dog.  However, if you are a friend of mine, and you are stupid enough to not ask me what are the right questions to ask, then you are truly an idiot.  Sorry, but truth is truth.

Here are the questions that you should ask when purchasing a puppy on line:
1)  How many litters per year do you breed?
--The answer to this should be:  No More than 1 or 2 litters per year.

2)  How many breeding dogs do you currently own?
----Should be only one to four dogs.

3)  How many different breeds of dogs do you own?
---One or two should be the answer.  At least for breeding purposes.  Some trainers may own more than two breeds.

4)  How do you determine if your dog is breeding quality or not?
----They should be showing dogs in one of the following venues;  AKC, UKC, FCI, IABCA, or breed club specialties.  People often suffer from kennel blindness.  They don't rely on their own judgements.


5)  Do you do any health screenings on your dogs, such as OFA, CERF, PRA, Cardiac, Thyroid Testing?  If they say no, ask why?  Altho, there is really no excuse not to do health screenings that are pertinent to the breed or the mixes of breed.


6)  Do you have a first right of refusal in your contract?(a reputable caring breeder, will do this)


There are many more questions to ask, but right now, I have a DR's appointment to prep for, so I am going to stop for now....And, I will finish this later;))

 

Things and Lies that Commercial Puppy Mill Breeders will Tell you

1)  Who pays good money for a mutt?  I don't get that.  Why buy a mutt for $700 when you can buy a purebred, from a "REPUTABLE" breeder for $500.00?

2)  I like it when puppy mills tell you that they don't guarantee that their dogs don't have worms.  Here is an example taken from a puppy mill sales contract:  "The following parasites common to puppies  are not covered in this contract:  coccidia,  giardia, round, hook, whip, tape, and  heart worms".  Bullshit.  I have a litter of pups on the ground right now, who do not have any worms, and never had any worms, or coccidia or giardia.  All of those can be deadly to puppies.  Pisses me off.  It is treatable, and should be treated prior to shipping a puppy.  Further, the stress of shipping can make it worse.  This is a poor, poor breeding practice. This breeder should be burned to the ground, in my opinion.  Even more:  What veterinarian is issuing a health certificate without testing for these?  


3)  This same breeder doesn't guarantee against parvo after 48 hours.  Problem with this?  Parvo has a 10 day incubation period.  It can get parvo the day it is shipped and not show signs for 10 days.. BTW, most pups I have ever seen with parvo?  Also have worms.....Hmmmm....

When looking at pups on the internet, USDA Liscensed is a sure sign of a puppy mill dog.  These are dogs where the owners are not doing health screenings prior to breeding(IE, no hip/elbow certifications, no PRA testing, no thyroid testing,no cardiac testing etc...)  They are simply in it to make money.  Now, don't take me wrong:  I have no issue with making money.  Just do that right thing if you are going to.  It doesn't cost that much to health screen your dogs, put a UKC title on them, etc....DO IT RIGHT! 

So, if you are going to breed mutts, at least have some ethics, and do the right thing.  The above breeder, by the way, is Burns Cuddly Canines, a cockapoo, puggle and whatever else breeder in....You guess it, the puppy mill capital of the US----Missouri....

I just simply don't understand the need to purchase dogs like this from people like this. 
 
USDA Liscensed is a sure sign of a puppy mill....Mark my words.....

Dog Training 101

A Good Dog Asssistance Dogs, LLC

Lesson Notes

Welcome To Dog Training 101

Here are some helpful hints for you to observe while training your dog!

1) Dog Training is nothing more than habits. We all develop habits by doing things repetitively and consistently. Everyone in the household needs to be on the same page regarding commands, how to say them, and when to say them.

2) Dogs communicate verbally and physically. Just as we do.

a) Commands: Just that. You are telling your dog to do something, not asking.

b) Praise: Should be warm and sincere. You are communicating approval rather than affection. Praise             your dog according to what he/she has just done. “Good Sit” “Good Down”

c) Corrections: Firm tone of voice. Do not YELL. Your dog is not deaf, and if they were, yelling would not do any good anyway. Remember, it is the behavior we are correcting, not the worth of the dog. Anger has no place in correction. But remember, to make the correction a worthwhile correction, something that the dog will remember the next time he/she is tempted to do that behavior again.

3) Don’t work any one exercise for such a long time, that what you are actually achieving is a correction for your pet. If rover has done very well in a short period of time, stop, come back and do another short session in 20 minutes.

4) Vary the times and locations of your practice sessions. Work indoors, outdoors, all reasonable forms of weather, the vet, the pet store, ect….

5)Practice at least 3 10-minute sessions a day, for older dogs. 7 or 8 5 minute sessions for puppies, or some dogs the first week. Each session should include 5 repetitions for 5-minute sessions. 15 reps for 10-minute sessions. This is of each command.

·         Lots and Lots and Lots of PRAISE

·         Correct with the proper amount of intensity.

6) Begin and End each session on a positive note. Make it fun. Use treats, something really special, that the dog only gets for training. Put his/her favorite toy away, and use it as a reward after each session---a quick 2-3 minute play session.

7) The key to training any animal is to establish a bond of trust and communication. Remember that dogs do not speak English, and we must teach them our language as we teach them. Remember to be fair and just.

8) Teach new lessons in a distraction free area, gradually adding new distractions only after the dog has demonstrated that learning has occurred. Be gentle until then.

9) Carefully plan each session, anticipate how your dog is likely to perform and how you will respond to that performance. For instance, know the area you are working in. Know where animals are, and how your dog will react, and how you will either praise or correct.

10) Give one single, clear command, and then proceed with absolutely no hesitation on your part as to your next move. Heel and start walking like you expect your dog to follow. If you hesitate, so will your dog.

11) Only give a command once, and then follow through with it. If you say, “sit” “sit” “sit” “sit”, then your dog learns to sit after you say it 4 times, as opposed to the first time.

12) NEVER EVER give a formal command that you can’t back up!

13) Don’t train if you are ill, irritated or frustrated, and don’t train if the dog is sick.

14)  Remember, dogs aren’t trained in a day----Even dogs that are already trained.  While your dog might obey the dog trainer, that doesn’t mean that they will obey you.  You have to earn their respect!

So, I really, Really Hate Stupid People that Call themselves dog people

This website showed up on one of my pages recently...and I really have to gasp in disbelief at the assinine stupidity of some people.
I have trained dogs for many many many many years, and have trained probably 5000 dogs and their owners or more.
Now I consider myself a Balance Dog Trainer, who uses a variety of methods.
Those who have had me train their dogs, know that the dogs are healthy and happy and "smile" when the remote collar or the prong collar comes out, because they know that they get to go work....
Here are some pictures of my dog,NONE OF THESE PICTURES WERE TAKEN IN THE U.S., They were all taken in foreign countries, where, she had to endure 20+ hour plane flights to get there....

 Now this is what some idiot, so called dog trainer(whom, btw, has only been training for 3-5 yrs, never mentions how many dogs she has trained, etc....)

This is what the WHOLE DOG  has to say about dog trainers:
http://www.wdtbc.com/qualifications.php

Now, this woman takes three sessions to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash...I can do that in 10 minutes or less.....who would you go with?  Spend 200.00 or 50.00?


She takes 6 sessions to teach:  sit, down, stay, come and leave it.(notice there is no heel in this?).  Then she takes another 6 sessions to get your dog ready for a CGC.  Gee, I can have your dog ready for a CGC in about 4-5 sessions.....Wow....$475.00 for 6 sessions, times 2....that means she is charging almost a 1000.00 to get your dog a CGC Certificate.....Gee, I charge $300.00 for 4 sessions....and most dogs and their owners are ready for a CGC in that time....Give me 12 sessions, and you will be ready to a Rally or Pre-Novice Obedience titles with the AKC.  Heck, I have sent home 8 week old Rottie pups that could pass a CGC test.....

Ways Consumers May Recognize Trainers
Using Old and New Training Methods

So let's address this blatant misleading stupidity step by step:

Common Characteristics	Old Compulsion/Force-Based	Modern, Positive, Dog-Friendly
Basis for Training Approach	Theories and beliefs about dominance, e.g., people needing to be “alpha” dogs, and the need to use physical force to get total control over their dog.  Methods only used with dogs.(This is crap.  Horses don't train in halters, they train in bits, so "dominance" is used in other breeds as well)  Take inspiration from Woodhouse, Koehler and other dog trainers from the 50’s and today’s TV celebrity, Cesar Millan.	Knowledge of what scholars tell us about what dominance is and is not. Use science-based approaches that have been proven effective with many species(Sorry, don't go there...why?  Whales and dolphins don't traditionally bite the mailman, run out in the road and get hit by a car, or chew up your gucci purses); classical and operant conditioning(Heck, these idiots choose to throw out 1/2 of operant conditioning---positive punishment and negative reinforcement). Understand how dogs think, learn and communicate, how to work with dog’s natural instincts. Applaud Pryor, Sdao, Miller, Clothier(Oh, wait, she uses Prong collars!), TV’s Victoria Stilman.(who's a blatant condescending jackass that couldn't train her way out of a paperbag.)
Language	“Commands.” Stern voice and serious, flat facial expression.(Really?  Yes, I do EXPECT my dogs to be obedient, yes, I do tell them, I don't ask them.  Obedience could save their lifes, or the life of a human.  No, they don't have a choice in obedience---tricks, sure, but obedience no....So, yes, I issue commands, I don't ask them to do it But since the author of this has never met me, then how can she know that I don't smile when I issue commands?.)	“Cues” Smiling, playful, light tones in voice, encouraging words.(Yes, and asking, rather than telling a dog or a child to do something is the reason why dogs die.  The number one reason for euthanasia after illness/old age?  Behavioral issues...Gee, maybe they should have told their dogs, rather than begging them to be obedient?)
Tools	Choke collars, prong collars, electric shocks for undesirable behavior, only verbal praise. Leash is control devise.]Well, DUH!  So is a lead shank for a horse. Misuse of head halters. Most of us don't use head halters period.  Why?  Because they are a managment tool, not a training tool.  Why is it dogs "trained"(using that word very very very loosely here) by these fools never get out of a head halter, but wear it for life?....Gee....maybe because they aren't really trained? You know, when I am done training a dog, you can walk my dogs down the street in a buckle collar, or  off leash....bet you can't do that with the authors dog, with high distractions....Oh, wait, she will say that my dogs ignore those distractions because they are afraid of me or pain....Well, gee, I would rather them obey for whatever reason than get hit by a car chasing the cat across the street....Wouldn't you?	Buckle or martingale collar, clickers, variety of food, toys and activities to reinforce desirable behavior. Leash is a safety device. Head halters and no pull harnesses. Gee.....I use all those too.  Except for the no-pull harness and head halters. People, head halters were "created" with the thought of a horse halter in mind...However, there are some problems: Horses and dogs are not the same species.  They don't think, act or react alike.   Horse have a long muzzle, and the halter doesn't interfere with their field of vision, which is very wide set, allowing them to see predators....Dogs are the predators, with shorter more narrow muzzles....The halter will interfere with their field of vision.  Further, studies have shown that head halters can cause severe neck trauma in dogs.....
Techniques	Punishment. Fear of pain, pain. Frequent talk/use of “corrections” in training. Physically force dogs into positions, use leash “pops,” pin dog on ground to “show who is boss.”  Military-style approach to training dogs and people. Minimal praise and rewards. Bullshit.  In a nutshell.  This idiot author doesn't have a clue what I do, or what other so-called 'compulsion based trainers" do.  She has never seen me work.	Pleasure. Gee, my dogs seem to enjoy working....   Promise of reward. Gee, my dogs get rewarded...they get a pat on the head, a hug and a good dog.... Trade food, freedom and fun in exchange for learning new behavior. Ah.....so, if the dogs don't do what they are told, they are deprived of food, affection, and playtime?  Wow...>Talk about cruel. Use primarily positive reinforcement & positive punishment and dog’s natural drives and tendencies and way of thinking, learning, communi-cating. Wow...I don't think I call starvation positive Fosters mutual respect. Generous with praise and rewards. Yeah, somehow, I don't really have a whole lot of respect, nor would my dog, if you starved it, didn't play with her, or didn't let her have down time(ie, freedom),.....In fact, she would probably bite your ass if you tried to deprive her of her food.
Education	Informal, learned from apprenticing with other like-minded people. Devalue formal education in dog learning theory and science-based methods. Do not seek out new methods. Well, this is just a flat out lie, straight from hell: I have a BA in Psychology, Dog training degrees from 2 nationally recognized dog training schools, a degree in behavior from Purdue University School of Vet Medicine(whose behavioralist, btw, will tell you that PUNISHMENT WORKS), a certifiecation from Novartis in Behavior Modification, just to name a few..... And, since I was a founding member of dog training/behavior organization, yeah, we do have a code of ethics...One of those codes of ethics basically states that we don't do what we are not qualified to do, and we get the job done in a short amount of time, rather than wasting time and money of the client, piddling around.	Combination of formal education and experience. Value ongoing learning and education. View work as a profession.  Subscribe to Code of Ethics established by dog training/behavior association.
Dogs trained by these methods	Fearful, wait to be told what to do. Do not connect with owner without prompting. Generally know a limited number of basic behaviors. Trachea or neck may be injured through use of tools.. Again, these idiots don't know my dogs, that's for sure.  And, I will gladly put my high drive Rotties against any dog the idiot author might have in terms of off leash behavior.....Think I am slightly irritated at this asinine stupidity?  Yeah, just a bit. As to tricks and many behaviors, other than her basic obedience, my Rottie knows about 130 commands, ie tricks...I bet the authors dog won't pick up a dime off a marble floor and hand it back to her, open a fridge get me a beer or pepsi(and know the difference between the two) and bring it to me without eating the meatloaf in the fridge, open doors, turn on/off lights, maintain a 5 hour down stay at the head of a spiral staircase, because I told her to....pull a wheelchair, fly on a plane for 23 hours without potty time, alert not only my seizures but another dogs seizures...Know the difference between a drunk and a cop out of uniform, when I am unconscious in the street, bleeding from a head wound.  Hmmmm....and yet, she is a sad, sad rottie, who hates to work....and who is terrified of me....Yeah, right....Idiots...	Offer behavior without prompting; trust their owner, Connected, happy, willing, eager. Usually know many behaviors and tricks. Can be trusted to work off lead.