So, I get an email today from a lady who "can't believe I don't think that there is a pet overpopulation problem."  And, no I don't think that there is a pet overpopulation problem.  I think that there is some serious misleading out there as to how many adoptable animals are actually out there.....

Further, breeders, whether they mass produce or simply produce one or two litters every 3 yrs are not the problem....Period.  I have never put one of my pups in the pound.  One of my dogs has not been euthanized because they weren't wanted....Ever.  Not a single pup of mine has ever ended up in the pound.  Ever. 

And they won't.  Why?  Because they know that I would "kill" them if they did. 

And, they know that I love my pups, and they can always come home.

Now, what other breeders do, I don't know...but I know that alot of good breeders have the same experience.

There are some people who don't want other people's cast offs, their problem pups, their rejects.....They want a pure bred puppy from a breeder they can trust who has bloodlines that are proven.

Now, as a service dog trainer, I don't want puppies from the pound....I want puppies from breeders, or dogs from people who are in a position of no longer keeping them, or trainers who find that the dog doesn't cut the mustard for whatever they are training for....I want dogs that I know how they are raised, what their genetics are.....I want to know how long the parents lived.  How long the grandparents lived.  If there is a history of hip dysplasia, cancer, thyroid issues in the bloodlines...I can't get that from a pound puppy.

Is that being an elitist?  Yes, maybe...but I know, from experience that pups/dogs from the sources that I choose are 90% likely to pass and become a service dog.  Dogs from the pound have less than a 25% chance of becoming a service dog...Now, for me, that translates into about 4000.00, by the time it's all said and done.

So, here it is:  If you don't like my point of view, don't read it. Don't email me.  Don't call me.  Don't bother me.  GO do some research and learn the truth of the matter.....

Proper Leash Handling Skills, Where a Heel should Be, Nice Distance Recall

I could have/should have put this one at the end....But, this pup is doing a sit-stay on a busy residential street at the end of a 30 ft. leash.....WOW...That all dogs should be this nicely behaved in 10 days time!

This same pup doing a front come....Nose in the crotch...Typical Dobie!

Notice that there is "U" shape to the leash?  That is how "loose" the leash should be on a properly trained dog,

This is an EXAMPLE of how to NOT HOLD THE LEASH!

This shows where the dog should be, and again, how loose the leash should be!

See how the leash is dragging in the behind the dog?  This dog is "essentially" off leash.  Why?  Because that leash is 30 ft in length....He has the option not to "heel".  BTW, this dog is 7 months old at the time of this picture.

Just A Few Pics Here and There......

Taste of the Wild

I think this dog likes Taste of The Wild....How About you?

Puppy Mills, Backyard Breeders, and who you SHOULDN'T purchase a puppy from

LET ME PREFACE THIS BY SAYING:  I am all for "free enterprise".  Puppy mills/commercial breeders provide a service.  Contrary to popular nonsense spouted by the HSUS there is NOT A PET OVER POPULATION PROBLEM(More on this in another post).  With that said, I caution people from purchasing puppies without thoroughly doing your research.  Just because someone is USDA inspected(which means that they are a commercial kennel, usually with more than 50 breeding dogs on the premises, and producing many many many litters per year) or because they have a website, does not mean that they are reputable.  Again, I have no issue with them---as long as the dogs are clean, well fed, cared for, and they don't lie/mislead the public.

My personal dogs live in a warehouse.  It is very, very clean, and the dogs eat well, are bathed twice a month, and have toys, and  fresh water daily.  They have a bucket of food in front of them daily(more than enough for their weight).  BUt, it is a warehouse.  And, some wouldn't/don't approve.  But, it is no different than any other kennel.  And, if you think that a USDA kennel is raising their dogs in the house---think again....they are not.  IN FACT, if you read the USDA rules, they really aren't allowed to, unless the house has been inspected and approved by the USDA Inspector. 

Read more, and do your research!

Recently a friend of mine purchased a puppy from a "puppy mill".  When I said something to him, his response was a)It was none of my business, and b) It's better to purchase a puppy from a 'reputable' breeder that has a website.

OK, so let's address that....
A)  Yes, it is my business.  Why?  Because I have puppies on the ground right now.  And, because the risk of his puppy having worms, coccidia, giardia or even parvo is great.  And, the risk of transferring those infections/parasites to my puppies is extremely great.  And, I would prefer to keep my pups alive and healthy.

B)  For dogs sake, why wouldn't you consult someone who has forgotten more about dogs than you will ever know?  I don't care that he bought a mutt.  I care that he bought a mutt from a USDA Kennel.  WHy is that a problem you ask?

Here are some websites that boil it down:
http://www.petshoppuppies.com/about.htm
====Now, let's start with the fact that the puppy in question came from Missouri.  " Missouri has the distinction of having more commercial kennels (those kennels supplying pet shops) than any other state"

Now, keep in mind.....I have no issue again with people making money.  That is what America is built on. Free enterprise.  I have dogs.  I have bitches.  I breed dogs.  I  make money breeding dogs.  I do not have 100 dogs, or have more than 10 litters per year.  However, USDA Liscensed usually means that the  kennel is in business to make money, or that it is their primary source of income.  In order to sell to pet stores or commercially, they must be USDA liscensed.

Here is a crash course in what it means to be USDA Liscensed:

Many have heard of the USDA (it’s stamped on organic food labels, meat labels, and other everyday grocery store items), and many have heard of puppy mills. But the fact that puppy mills are regulated by the USDA is a little-known fact to most people.

The US Department of Agriculture seems like a strange entity to be in charge of regulating the puppy industry, but that’s how it works. To be clearer, the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Services (APHIS) is the arm of the USDA in charge of regulating puppy mills under the Animal Welfare Act. There are currently 5,913 dog breeders and brokers with USDA licenses. People often wonder whether there is a list of all the puppy mills in the country. Well, the USDA is the first place to look.

In April, Oprah Winfrey aired an hour-long show about puppy mills, and the same day, the USDA published a FAQ on animal dealers. Note the paragraph to the right—the first frequently asked question: “who regulates puppy mills?” Answer: the USDA.
**Note that the USDA has since changed the language to read: "Who regulates commercial dog breeders?"

.

What many people also don’t realize is that under the Freedom of Information Act, we are all entitled to view not just a breeder’s name and address, but their inspection reports are included as well. Curious about a breeder? Order their inspection reports. You can do it online by clicking here.

What’s NOT inspected by the USDA?
-Retail pet stores. The USDA only regulates the supply end—the breeders.
-Puppy sales on the Internet, classified ads, flea markets. NO regulation
-Small-scale breeders who have three or fewer breeding female dogs. NO regulation

70 inspectors for 10,000 facilities
In addition to inspecting and watching over commercial dog kennels, APHIS inspectors are also in charge of inspecting research facilities, zoos and circuses, airport terminals—they are in charge of inspecting the care, handling and housing of everything from dogs to dolphins. This document, published on APHIS’ website, has this to say about the inspectors themselves:

“[Animal Care] inspectors receive special training in the proper care of marine mammals, exotic animals, and animals used in research. Inspectors also receive extensive training in how to conduct inspections at airport terminals, zoos, and commercial animal breeding facilities, among others. APHIS currently has more than 70 AC inspectors in the United States, who are strategically placed where regulated facilities are located.”

The total number of active licensed facilities listed on the APHIS website is 9,883. At first glance, seventy inspectors for nearly 10,000 facilities sounds like a miniscule number of people doing a colossal job but if you do the math, it adds up to about one facility per day per inspector.

What compliance means with the AWA
It’s important to note exactly what inspectors are looking for when they arrive at a USDA licensed kennel. Their job is to make sure breeders are adhering to the minimum standards set forth by the Animal Welfare Act (AWA). They can look at a facility with hundreds of dogs in small cages, desperate for human attention, and note no violations.

That’s because the AWA does nothing to ensure dogs are happy, or live a quality life. It’s not written into the regulations, and therefore is not something the USDA enforces. Here are some quick facts about the minimum standards set forth by the USDA:
-Inspections are “Risk-based,” meaning that facilities that meet a certain criteria are inspected “as seldom as once every 2 to 3 years.”
-Cage size: must be 6 inches larger than the size of the dog, on all sides
-Up to 12 dogs can be housed in one cage
-Dogs never have to be let out of their cages. Breeders only need to have an exercise plan
-There is no limit to the number dogs a breeder can have—many have over 1,000
-There is no age limit for breeding dogs. If a dog is able to produce puppies for ten years, that’s how long they could be in the facility


Now, again, let me be straight:  I don't care where you buy your dog.  However, if you are a friend of mine, and you are stupid enough to not ask me what are the right questions to ask, then you are truly an idiot.  Sorry, but truth is truth.

Here are the questions that you should ask when purchasing a puppy on line:
1)  How many litters per year do you breed?
--The answer to this should be:  No More than 1 or 2 litters per year.

2)  How many breeding dogs do you currently own?
----Should be only one to four dogs.

3)  How many different breeds of dogs do you own?
---One or two should be the answer.  At least for breeding purposes.  Some trainers may own more than two breeds.

4)  How do you determine if your dog is breeding quality or not?
----They should be showing dogs in one of the following venues;  AKC, UKC, FCI, IABCA, or breed club specialties.  People often suffer from kennel blindness.  They don't rely on their own judgements.


5)  Do you do any health screenings on your dogs, such as OFA, CERF, PRA, Cardiac, Thyroid Testing?  If they say no, ask why?  Altho, there is really no excuse not to do health screenings that are pertinent to the breed or the mixes of breed.


6)  Do you have a first right of refusal in your contract?(a reputable caring breeder, will do this)


There are many more questions to ask, but right now, I have a DR's appointment to prep for, so I am going to stop for now....And, I will finish this later;))

 

Things and Lies that Commercial Puppy Mill Breeders will Tell you

1)  Who pays good money for a mutt?  I don't get that.  Why buy a mutt for $700 when you can buy a purebred, from a "REPUTABLE" breeder for $500.00?

2)  I like it when puppy mills tell you that they don't guarantee that their dogs don't have worms.  Here is an example taken from a puppy mill sales contract:  "The following parasites common to puppies  are not covered in this contract:  coccidia,  giardia, round, hook, whip, tape, and  heart worms".  Bullshit.  I have a litter of pups on the ground right now, who do not have any worms, and never had any worms, or coccidia or giardia.  All of those can be deadly to puppies.  Pisses me off.  It is treatable, and should be treated prior to shipping a puppy.  Further, the stress of shipping can make it worse.  This is a poor, poor breeding practice. This breeder should be burned to the ground, in my opinion.  Even more:  What veterinarian is issuing a health certificate without testing for these?  


3)  This same breeder doesn't guarantee against parvo after 48 hours.  Problem with this?  Parvo has a 10 day incubation period.  It can get parvo the day it is shipped and not show signs for 10 days.. BTW, most pups I have ever seen with parvo?  Also have worms.....Hmmmm....

When looking at pups on the internet, USDA Liscensed is a sure sign of a puppy mill dog.  These are dogs where the owners are not doing health screenings prior to breeding(IE, no hip/elbow certifications, no PRA testing, no thyroid testing,no cardiac testing etc...)  They are simply in it to make money.  Now, don't take me wrong:  I have no issue with making money.  Just do that right thing if you are going to.  It doesn't cost that much to health screen your dogs, put a UKC title on them, etc....DO IT RIGHT! 

So, if you are going to breed mutts, at least have some ethics, and do the right thing.  The above breeder, by the way, is Burns Cuddly Canines, a cockapoo, puggle and whatever else breeder in....You guess it, the puppy mill capital of the US----Missouri....

I just simply don't understand the need to purchase dogs like this from people like this. 
 
USDA Liscensed is a sure sign of a puppy mill....Mark my words.....

Dog Training 101

A Good Dog Asssistance Dogs, LLC

Lesson Notes

Welcome To Dog Training 101

Here are some helpful hints for you to observe while training your dog!

1) Dog Training is nothing more than habits. We all develop habits by doing things repetitively and consistently. Everyone in the household needs to be on the same page regarding commands, how to say them, and when to say them.

2) Dogs communicate verbally and physically. Just as we do.

a) Commands: Just that. You are telling your dog to do something, not asking.

b) Praise: Should be warm and sincere. You are communicating approval rather than affection. Praise             your dog according to what he/she has just done. “Good Sit” “Good Down”

c) Corrections: Firm tone of voice. Do not YELL. Your dog is not deaf, and if they were, yelling would not do any good anyway. Remember, it is the behavior we are correcting, not the worth of the dog. Anger has no place in correction. But remember, to make the correction a worthwhile correction, something that the dog will remember the next time he/she is tempted to do that behavior again.

3) Don’t work any one exercise for such a long time, that what you are actually achieving is a correction for your pet. If rover has done very well in a short period of time, stop, come back and do another short session in 20 minutes.

4) Vary the times and locations of your practice sessions. Work indoors, outdoors, all reasonable forms of weather, the vet, the pet store, ect….

5)Practice at least 3 10-minute sessions a day, for older dogs. 7 or 8 5 minute sessions for puppies, or some dogs the first week. Each session should include 5 repetitions for 5-minute sessions. 15 reps for 10-minute sessions. This is of each command.

·         Lots and Lots and Lots of PRAISE

·         Correct with the proper amount of intensity.

6) Begin and End each session on a positive note. Make it fun. Use treats, something really special, that the dog only gets for training. Put his/her favorite toy away, and use it as a reward after each session---a quick 2-3 minute play session.

7) The key to training any animal is to establish a bond of trust and communication. Remember that dogs do not speak English, and we must teach them our language as we teach them. Remember to be fair and just.

8) Teach new lessons in a distraction free area, gradually adding new distractions only after the dog has demonstrated that learning has occurred. Be gentle until then.

9) Carefully plan each session, anticipate how your dog is likely to perform and how you will respond to that performance. For instance, know the area you are working in. Know where animals are, and how your dog will react, and how you will either praise or correct.

10) Give one single, clear command, and then proceed with absolutely no hesitation on your part as to your next move. Heel and start walking like you expect your dog to follow. If you hesitate, so will your dog.

11) Only give a command once, and then follow through with it. If you say, “sit” “sit” “sit” “sit”, then your dog learns to sit after you say it 4 times, as opposed to the first time.

12) NEVER EVER give a formal command that you can’t back up!

13) Don’t train if you are ill, irritated or frustrated, and don’t train if the dog is sick.

14)  Remember, dogs aren’t trained in a day----Even dogs that are already trained.  While your dog might obey the dog trainer, that doesn’t mean that they will obey you.  You have to earn their respect!